The Hirshon Northern Thai Khao Soi – ข้าวซอย

April 18, 2018 by The Generalissimo Leave a Comment

Khao Soi Image Used Under Creative Commons License From thaifoodparadise.com

My Citizens, many in Thailand feel that the apotheosis of Thai cuisine is found in the northern half of the country, in the province of Chiang Mai. The dish most aficionados feel is the best example of the region’s cuisine is Khao Soi.

Khao soi or khao soy (Lao: ເຂົ້າຊອຍ, Burmese: အုန်းနို့ခေါက်ဆွဲ is a Chin Haw dish served widely in Myanmar (known as: ohn no khao swè), Laos and northern Thailand.

The Chin Haw are Chinese people who migrated to Thailand via Burma or Laos. Most of them were originally from Yunnan, the southern province of China and they speak Southwestern Mandarin. Generally, the Chin Haw can be divided into three groups according to the time of their migration.

In the 19th century, the Qing army had sent troops to suppress the rebellion in Yunnan, known as the Panthay Rebellion, which caused up to 1,000,000 lives lost – both civilians and soldiers. During this time, many people fled to the Shan state in Burma, then to the north of Thailand.

The Panthay Chinese merchants who traded between Yunnan, Burma and Lanna from their base in the Wa States. Some of them decided to settle down along this trade route. Lastly, after the Chinese revolution in 1949, the 93rd Corps, which supported the Kuomintang party, fled to Burma and to the north of Thailand.

Khao Soi’s name means “cut rice” in Thai, although it is possible that it is simply a corruption of the Burmese word for noodles which is just ‘khao swè’ which may account for the variations. Traditionally, the dough for the rice noodles is spread out on a cloth stretched over boiling water. After steaming the large sheet noodle is then rolled and cut with scissors. Lao khao soi is still made with the traditional noodles, and in some markets in Luang Namtha and Muang Sing vendors still cut the noodles. These traditionally cut noodles can also be found in several places in northern Thailand.

There are two common versions of khao soi:

Lao khao soi is a soup made with wide rice noodles, coarsely chopped pork, tomatoes, fermented soy beans, chillies, shallots, and garlic, then topped with pork rind, bean sprouts, chopped scallions, and chopped cilantro. Though northern Laotians have a special way of preparing this dish, different versions of it can be found at Lao restaurants.

Northern Thai khao soi is closer to the present day Burmese ohn no khao swè, being a soup-like dish made with a mix of deep-fried crispy egg noodles and boiled egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime, ground chilies fried in oil, and meat in a curry-like sauce containing coconut milk. The curry is somewhat similar to that of yellow or massaman curry but of a thinner consistency. It is popular as a street dish eaten by Thai people in northern Thailand, though not frequently served in Thai restaurants abroad.

There is some reason to believe that the Thai version of khao soi was influenced by Chinese Muslim cuisine and was therefore likely served with chicken or beef. Different variants of khao soi that are made without any coconut milk and with rice noodles instead of egg noodles are mainly eaten in the eastern half of northern Thailand. Khao soi is also featured in the cuisine of the Shan people who primarily live in Burma. This version of khao soi, as well as the version in Chiang Rai Province, can contain pieces of curdled blood.

Citizens, the mighty and always authentic TFD has given you a recipe which – in His mind – exemplifies the best and most authentic version you will find of this delightful recipe! 😀

Battle on – The Generalissimo

The Hirshon Northern Thai Khao Soi – ข้าวซอย

Ingredients

For the Curry Paste:
9 dried Thai chili peppers soaked in water overnight
6 garlic cloves
3 kaffir lime leaves
3 medium shallots, halved
One 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced (⅓ cup sliced ginger)
One 2-inch piece fresh turmeric, peeled and thinly sliced - cut this on a disposable plate with kitchen gloves and with a metal knife - it stains BADLY
¼ cup chopped coriander root or 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro stems
2 tablespoons sliced lemongrass from the base of the stalk
1 tablespoon shrimp paste, toasted in foil
1½ teaspoons toasted coriander seeds
2 ½ teaspoons toasted green cardamom pods, seeds removed and husks discarded
2 toasted black cardamom seeds, seeds removed and husks discarded
***
For the Chicken Rub (Marinade):
1 tablespoon Maharaja curry powder from Penzey’s Spices
1 tablespoon garam masala
1 tsp sea salt
***
For the Khao Soi:
3 cups Thai coconut milk, divided
Curry paste
3 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
1½ pounds chicken legs, drumsticks and thighs separated (4 legs, 8 pieces total)
1 ½ cups coconut oil
16 ounces thick egg noodles
2 tablespoons palm sugar
Red Boat 40-brand fish sauce to taste
Black soy sauce to taste - this is NOT regular soy, though it can be substituted
***
Cilantro sprigs, pickled mustard greens, shallots, chili oil and lime wedges, for serving

Instructions

Wash and dry chicken. Marinate with dry rub and set aside. (Can do this overnight)
Make the curry paste: Place the dried chiles in a heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and let soak until softened, 20 minutes, or soak overnight in cold water. Drain the chiles, reserving the soaking liquid.
Toast dry spices in a hot pan until darkened, no oil needed, remove from heat and set aside. Toast remaining paste ingredients until they have a slight char or smoky aroma. Toast shrimp paste in a small foil packet. Remove from heat and put all ingredients in your mortar or blender.
In a mortar (or food processor), pound garlic, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, ginger, turmeric, coriander root (or cilantro stems), lemongrass, shrimp paste, curry powder, coriander seeds, cardamom seeds, and 2 to 4 tablespoons of coconut milk or the chili soaking liquid (as needed) to make a paste. Makes about 1¼ cups.
Make the soup: In a large heavy pot, heat 1 cup of the coconut milk over medium-high heat. When the coconut milk begins to simmer, add the curry paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid has thickened and reduced, 5-10 minutes. The oils should start to bubble and separate.
Add the marinated chicken, browning a little on both sides. Add the chicken stock (covering chicken completely) and bring to a boil. reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, 40 to 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches, fry 4 ounces of egg noodles until golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.
Cook the egg noodles one batch at a time, prepare one pot of boiling water and one ice bath for a 3 step process:
First: slightly rinse noodles under cold water to remove excess flour
Second: Submerge into rapid boiling water, just to soften, about 30-40 seconds, remove immediately (too long and they will become gummy and inedible)
Third: Transfer the noodles immediately from boiling pot to ice bath. This will stop the cooking, retain color and help firm them. Remove after 30 seconds, and place in bowl.
Stir the palm sugar into the soup. Taste and adjust the seasoning with fish and soy sauces. Place noodles and soup among 6 bowls. Lightly drizzle coconut milk over top of soup, (don’t stir!) and serve with cilantro, pickled mustard greens, shallots, fried chili oil and lime wedges.

https://www.thefooddictator.com/the-hirshon-northern-thai-khao-soi-%e0%b8%82%e0%b9%89%e0%b8%b2%e0%b8%a7%e0%b8%8b%e0%b8%ad%e0%b8%a2/

The Hirshon Chicago Shrimp DeJonghe

April 14, 2018 by The Generalissimo Leave a Comment

Shrimp De Jonghe Image Used Under Creative Commons License From chicago.eater.com

Citizens, the unmitigated genius of your Leader – the sublime majesty that is TFD! – has the heartland of the United States in his sights today, a dish that helps define the culinary identity of Chicago! 🙂

Shrimp DeJonghe, a specialty of Chicago, is a casserole of whole peeled shrimp blanketed in soft, garlicky, sherry-laced bread crumbs. It can be served as an appetizer or a main course.

It has the oldest pedigree of Chicagoan cuisine, having originated in the late 19th or early 20th century at DeJonghe’s Hotel and Restaurant, 12 E. Monroe St. (1899–1923).

The recipe has been attributed to the owners, brothers Henri, Pierre and Charles DeJonghe, Belgian immigrants who came to Chicago to run a restaurant at the World’s Columbian Exposition, or their chef, Emil Zehr.

Whatever its origin, this recipe is a deserved classic and one that is by no means difficult to make. My version adds a touch of heat and smoke with a hint of smoked chili flakes from Daphnis and Chloe. I also specify chopped flowering heads of chives, if possible and some flowering thyme as well.

My recipe is based on one from the fantastic website, Cooks Country. I’m very grateful to their site for this and so many other fine American recipes!

Battle on – The Generalissimo

The Hirshon Chicago Shrimp DeJonghe

Ingredients

1 cup panko bread crumbs, toasted
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
⅛ cup minced fresh parsley
⅛ cup minced fresh flowering thyme
¼ cup minced heads of fresh flowering Chinese chives, if unavailable use regular chives
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice
Salt and pepper
Pinch ground nutmeg
2 pounds jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed
1 shallot, minced
7 garlic cloves, minced
¾ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon smoked chili flakes from Daphnis and Chloe, ground to a powder

Instructions

Try to find untreated shrimp—those without added salt or preservatives like sodium tripolyphosphate. Ask your fishmonger or read the label to see if your shrimp has been treated.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Using your fingers, combine panko, 7 tablespoons butter, parsley, thyme, chives, lemon zest, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg in medium bowl; set aside. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels and transfer to large bowl.
Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallot, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, paprika and ground smoked chili flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add sherry and lemon juice and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Continue to simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes; transfer to bowl with shrimp and toss until shrimp are well coated.
Shingle shrimp in a 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Scrape any remaining garlic mixture from bowl over shrimp. Sprinkle panko mixture over shrimp. Bake until shrimp are pink and mixture is bubbling around edges, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes and serve with lemon wedges.
USING TREATED SHRIMP
Much of the shrimp on the market has been treated with sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP) or salt. This treatment promotes moisture retention, which means the shrimp can be soggy. Always use untreated shrimp if possible.
However, if you can only find the treated kind, here’s a way to rid them of the extra moisture: Microwave the shrimp in a covered bowl until they just start to turn pink, about 4 minutes. (Typically, ¼ to ½ cup of liquid will be exuded.) Drain the shrimp in a colander and pat them dry with paper towels before proceeding with the recipe.

https://www.thefooddictator.com/the-hirshon-chicago-shrimp-dejonghe/

The Hirshon Salsa Verde For Lamb

April 10, 2018 by The Generalissimo Leave a Comment

Salsa Verde Image Used Under Creative Commons License From The Food Dictator

Citizens, as part of my mighty Passover feast, the always gregarious TFD wishes to share with you a very special recipe, created specifically to complement the Spring leg of lamb that was the centerpiece of my holiday table!

As TFD digs the spicy, the best option proved to be a unique salsa verde for lamb, using ingredients not typically found in Italian salsa verde, but very true indeed to its spirit!

Green sauce is a family of cold, uncooked sauces based on herbs, including the spanish salsa verde, the French sauce verte, the italian salsa verde, the German Grüne Soße or Frankfurter Grie Soß (Frankfurt dialect), and the Argentinian chimichurri.

The Mexican salsa verde, though also called a “green sauce” is instead based on tomatillos.

The basic recipe is probably from the Near East and, as such, is probably at least 2,000 years old. Roman legionaries brought it to Italy, from where it was exported to France and Germany. Evidence suggests that it was introduced in Kassel by the Italian trading families Bolongaro and Crevenna around 1700.

A possible origin of the German variant are French Protestant immigrants emigrating to Kurhessen in the 18th century. The German variant uses a different mix of herbs, since Mediterranean herbs were not available in Germany at the time.

The Italian salsa verde is a cold rustic sauce, and includes parsley, vinegar, capers, garlic, onion, anchovies, olive oil, and possibly mustard.

The ingredients are coarsely chopped, formerly by hand, now often in a food processor. In some regions, cubed bread is soaked in vinegar and blended with the other ingredients, which creates an emulsion somewhat similar to a vinaigrette. In other regions, there is no bread.

Salsa verde is used as a condiment or dipping sauce for meats, fish, poultry, or vegetables. It is traditionally served as an accompaniment to bollito misto or grilled or stewed fish.

My version – as previously noted – does include some herbs that are atypical to this sauce of sauces, but trust me on this: my recipe is PERFECT for lamb! 🙂 It is actually a hybrid of English mint sauce for lamb and salsa verde.

Battle on – The Generalissimo

The Hirshon Salsa Verde For Lamb

Ingredients

8 anchovy fillets, Ortiz brand only
6 tablespoons drained capers
14 cloves garlic, peeled, green germ removed
2 ½ cups Extra Virgin California Olive Oil
1 cup fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh basil leaves
½ cup fresh cilantro
6 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves
4 tablespoons fresh chives
4 tablespoons fresh sage
6 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, no hard stems
2 teaspoons minced jalapeños
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
3 tablespoons hot cream horseradish, Beaver brand preferred
3 tablespoons malt vinegar

Instructions

Combine all in food processor. Serve cold or at room temperature.

https://www.thefooddictator.com/the-hirshon-salsa-verde-for-lamb/