Thanksgiving Platter Image Used Under Creative Commons License From bunsenburnerbakery.com
Citizens! The holiday season is once again upon us, and it is with a mixture of reverence, awe and more-than-a-bit of wistfulness (see the last paragraph as to why) that I share what will probably be My final Thanksgiving-specific feast recipe with you! Tremble in awe before a legacy recipe set I have been curating and updating since – gulp! – 1988!!! Most of the dishes in this post are based on recipes from the November 1988 print issue of Gourmet magazine (with TFD changes noted in the recipes). Yes, these actually predate the public Internet and are tragically not available online – IMHO they have always defined the classic and ultimate version of the Thanksgiving feast!
From Gourmet Magazine, November 1988
I have kept these treasured pages in My recipe folder for nearly 40 years now and am honored to share the latest version of them with you. They are simply too good to keep only for Myself. Unusual variants such as the infamous Thompson’s Turkey recipe from the 1940’s have all attempted to ensure a perfect match of bird and side – but today, it is now achieved by My divinely-inspired culinary skill and creativity. Seek no further, culinary pilgrim, for you have achieved what others have failed to find: Thanksgiving culinary apotheosis!
I remember back in 2011 when I showed Iron Chef Alex Guarnaschelli of the Food Network a picture of My Turkey on X (then Twitter), in all its bronzed glory – she only had one word to say: “WOW!”.
Simply put, it is nearly impossible to cook a whole turkey to perfection due to the wildly differing cook times of the breast meat and dark meat – one is ALWAYS overcooked and the other is ALWAYS undercooked. Don’t even get Me started about how wildly wrong most oven temperatures actually are – I rave eloquently and LONG on this particular topic!
Let’s return to the subject at hand!
First off, I STRONGLY recommend using a heritage turkey from here (I am exceedingly fond of their Bourbon Red offering!) as the centerpiece of your feast, or at least obtain a good-quality market bird such as those from Diestel Ranch.
Like you, I have always roasted the whole turkey in the oven every year – but no longer! There is now no need to compromise the white meat in favor of the dark or vice-versa thanks to the restaurant go-to technique of sous vide (cooking sealed ingredients in a temperature-controlled water bath).
If you haven’t yet experienced the transcendent joy that is sous vide – buckle up and grab a complete kit from Anova here, it is a deep dive (#badpun) that will change your culinary life!
Cooking the bird in parts and via sous vide WILL give you unquestionably the best possible results! However, if you lack a sous vide, never fear – I have published two previous iterations of this unmatched recipe roasting the whole bird in the oven! You can see the evolution of the original recipe posted here in 2016 and updated here in 2019. Both of these old iterations reflect (and greatly minimize in my version) the same endemic flaw – the dry turkey itself.
Thanks to the magic of sous vide, however, that flaw is completely banished from Thanksgiving FORVER! Here, you will be cooking each part of the bird separately in that temperature-controlled water bath to ensure each is cooked to succulent, juicy perfection. A final cook of the breast skin separately as one whole piece gives you crispy skin perfection! (a genius solution I gratefully cribbed from the gastro-boffins at Serious Eats!).
That said, NO LONGER must any of us endure such boring turkey TOMfoolery (#badpunagain)!
I have decided to cook My turkey with My own custom smoky Cajun spicy mix to add excellent flavor (turkey is usually disappointingly bland) but with minimal heat. This recipe is eminently suitable for your parents and grandparents who otherwise might shy away from something labeled “Cajun” – flavor, smoke and a mild kick of heat is the goal I have sought after and ACHIEVED!
It only took 40 years to finally hit Thanksgiving recipe perfection!!!
Be advised – this recipe set is a ***major*** undertaking, but if you gird your loins, get lots of help in the kitchen, take a deep breath and apply yourself with fortitude and diligence, it will result in the finest Thanksgiving meal EVER!
If you are overwhelmed and need immediate help with cooking your turkey the old way in the oven, take a deep breath and call the Butterball hotline!
The Cajun spice blend I created for this recipe is deliberately mild but still exceptionally flavorful – I make no claim that it is “standard” as it incorporates several ingredients no self-respecting Cajun would include in the classic N’Awleans version. It is however very smoky and adds great savor to the final turkey!
A modern innovation I pioneered in My classic Jewish Rolled Beef recipe is using transglutaminase (aka meat glue) to avoid having to tie up the breast pieces into a log shape, which ensures perfectly even sous vide cooking – with meat glue, it just sticks together. no string required! Grab transglutaminase from here. Duck fat can be purchased from D’Artagnan, My preferred supplier of all things duck, from here! Please use the best possible butter in all of the recipes requiring it and serve the same with the sides needing it – I prefer Bordier salted butter (or their extraordinary seasonal onion butter with the peas recipe!). KerryGold salted butter is an excellent mainstream choice, IMHO.
Remember to start this recipe set several days in advance, take a deep breath and know success is within you – just spread the recipes out across the allotted days and believe in yourself as I do! The recipes associated with the main attraction are listed BELOW the turkey recipe – there are just too many of them to stuff (Thanksgiving stuffing pun intended!) into one recipe post without overwhelming you!
Good luck in this most labor-intensive of food-centric holidays, My brave Citizens of TFD Nation: there is no better recipe set for Thanksgiving ANYWHERE on the Internet! This will. I believe, be My last Thanksgiving update as I have achieved My goal – I now pass My perfected legacy on to you, in all of its undimmed glory!
Saying this, I suddenly feel…old. Looking forward to my next quintile decades as I fully intend to surpass 118 years…but old nonetheless. For perhaps the first time in my life. It hit Me hard and suddenly while doing some quick mental math before starting this post.
With all that said, let’s look to the future – on a lark, I asked the much-used and frequently maligned ChatGPT what it thought of my recipe set – and its cogent reply surprised me! This is most highly rated indeed and it even enhances the workflow for normal and tiny kitchens!
That AI is objective, and I LIKE that – in the future, I will include a link to ChatGPT’s insights, good and bad.
CITIZENS! ATTEND AND NOTE A MANIFESTO PROCLAMATION FROM ME – ONLY THE SECOND IN A DECADE+ OF TFD!
Let Me proclaim to you here and now that that AI never has and never will be involved in any writing of My recipes or in the preparation of My own words – this is true from TFD’s Genesis and will remain truth through to its Ragnarok. That role remains with Me alone, as it should and always will!
The unblinking eye reviewing MY work holds no fear in Me whatsoever – I see this as a reminder that anyone can be elevated by wise counsel provided with objectivity and if asked, giving valuable feedback.
With that said and engraved upon the bitstream’s foundational Matrix:
ONWARDS, CITIZENS – GASTRONOMIC GLORY THIS THANKSGIVING AWAIS US AND THE FUTURE IS OURS ALONE TO CLAIM!
Stir all Hirshon Cajun Seasoning ingredients together. Mix until well blended. Use ½ to ⅔ cup for 10-12 pounds of turkey parts. May be stored for several months in an airtight covered jar.
Break down the turkey: Have your butcher separate the turkey into four main parts: remove the skin of the whole breast in one piece and reserve. Separate the whole breast into two breasts (off the bone) and two leg/thigh quarters. Use the carcass, wings, and bones for stock to make gravy or stuffing. If they are willing, ask the butcher to remove the thigh bones to make the parts easier to cut as well and to crack them open as well – reserve the bones to make the gravy.
Have your butcher carefully remove the breast turkey skin in a single piece and set aside. Have them remove the breast meat from breastbone. Reserve cracked breastbone for gravy.
Cook the parts at different temperatures:
Dark meat (legs and thighs): Set up an immersion circulator and preheat the water bath to 150°F (66°C).
Season turkey legs all over with Cajun seasoning. Set thyme sprigs on bottom sides of legs. Place turkey legs into two separate vacuum bags and seal according to vacuum-sealer manufacturer’s instructions.
Fully submerge turkey legs in water bath and cook for 24 hours. Make sure to cover top of container with plastic wrap or custom lid to prevent evaporation and to keep temperature consistent. If bags float, weigh them down by placing a wet kitchen towel on top or by using binder clip.
Remove turkey from water bath and transfer to refrigerator to chill. The turkey legs can be kept refrigerated within the sealed bag for up to 1 week. If using right away (recommended), remove turkey from bags and pat surface dry with paper towels; discard thyme.
To serve: If using immediately, heat ½ TBsp. peanut oil and ½Tbsp. duck fat in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working with one turkey leg at a time, sear on all sides until the skin is crispy and golden brown, about 6 minutes (gently turn or prop up turkey leg with a spoon or tongs to get even browning all over).
If serving after refrigeration: Remove turkey from bag, wipe away any congealed fat or solids, and pat dry with paper towels; discard thyme. Brush with peanut oil and duck fat and cook the turkey legs skin side up in a 450°F (230°C) oven or broil until the meat is heated through and the skin is browned and crispy, about 7 minutes.
White meat (breasts):
Season the breasts generously with Hirshon Cajun seasoning. Place 1 breast half, cut side facing up, on a work surface and coat with transglutaminase.
Place second breast half facedown, so the fat end aligns with the skinny end of the first breast half. Gently form them into an even cylinder, using more transglutaminase as needed. If you prefer not to use tranglutaminase, go old school and tie the turkey breasts together at 1-inch intervals using butcher’s twine. Transfer to a zipper-lock bag. Turkey can be refrigerated for up to 5 days before proceeding.
Heat a sous vide water bath to 145°F (63°C). With bag open, slowly lower bagged turkey into water, letting water pressure squeeze air out of bag until just the seal remains above the waterline. Seal bag completely. Let turkey cook for 2 ½ hours. Meanwhile, make the crispy skin and gravy.
For the Crispy Skin: Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Spread skin evenly over a piece of parchment paper set in a rimmed baking sheet. Season generously with Hirshon Cajun seasoning.
Place a second sheet of parchment on top and carefully squeeze out any air bubbles using the side of your hand. Place a second rimmed baking sheet on top and transfer to oven.
Roast until skin is deep brown and crisp (it will crisp further on cooling), 30 to 45 minutes. Allow to cool and set aside at room temperature. Turkey skin can be roasted in advance, cooled completely, then stored, loosely covered, at room temperature for up to 3 days. To re-crisp, place in a hot oven for a few minutes just before serving.
Slice up the white and dark meat as well as the crispy skin so each diner gets some of each.
Serve with all the traditional sides listed below this recipe and spend the next several days in turkey coma and recovering!!!
—
Turkey Giblet Stock:
The neck and giblets (excluding the liver) of a 12-14 pound Turkey
4 cups homemade chicken broth (preferred) or low-salt boxed from the supermarket (this is a TFD change from the original recipe, which called for water)
1 rib celery with leaves, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
½ tsp. dried thyme, crumbled
1 tsp. black peppercorns
In a large saucepan, combine the neck and the giblets, the broth, the celery, the carrot, the onion, and 4 cups of stock and bring the liquid to a boil, skimming the froth.
Add the bay leaf, the thyme, and the peppercorns and cook the mixture at a bare simmer for 2 hours, or until it is reduced to 4 cups. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl, reserving the neck and giblets for the gravy.
The stock may be made 2 days in advance, cooled completely, uncovered, and kept chilled in an airtight container or frozen. Makes about 4 cups.
***
For the Brandied Giblet Gravy:
1 cup dry white wine
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
3 cups Turkey giblet stock and the reserved cooked neck and giblets
3 Tbsp. Cognac or other Brandy, or to taste
Several dashes of Kitchen Bouquet to provide a rich color (TFD addition, omit for original)
Skim the fat from the stock, you will need ¼ cup of that fat – if needed, add duck or chicken fat to make up the difference.
Add the wine to the pan, and deglaze the pan over moderately high heat, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom and sides. Boil the mixture until it is reduced by ½ and reserve it.
In a saucepan, combine the reserved fat and the flour and cook the roux over moderately low heat, whisking, for 3 minutes. Add the stock and reserved wine mixture in a stream, whisking and bring the mixture to a boil, whisking and then simmer the gravy, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes.
Add the reserved cooked giblets and the neck meat, chopped fine, the Cognac, several dashes of Kitchen Bouquet and kosher salt and pepper to taste. Simmer the gravy for 2 minutes and transfer it to a heated pitcher or sauceboat.
48 oysters, shucked, reserving 3 Tbsp. of the liquor
1 ½ Tbsp. heavy cream
Tabasco to taste
Lemon wedges as an accompaniment, if desired
In a bowl, stir together the bread crumbs, the cracker crumbs, the butter, the parsley and the dill, spread ½ the mixture in the bottom of a 13- by 9-inch baking pan, and on it arrange the oysters in one layer.
In a small bowl, stir together the reserved oyster liquor, the cream, the Tabasco, and salt and pepper to taste and drizzle the liquid evenly over the oysters.
Cover the oysters with the remaining crumb mixture, bake them in the middle of a preheated 425 degree F. oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the crumbs are golden, and serve the oysters with the lemon wedges.
< ½ pound Italian mild sausage meat, crumbled – note that this is NOT in the original recipe and is a TFD addition, but it really makes it! >
3 Granny Smith Apples
***
The following recipe yields a very dry cornbread that is best suited for stuffing.
Corn Bread for Stuffing:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 ⅓ cups yellow cornmeal
1 Tbsp. double acting baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 cup milk
1 large egg
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled
In a bowl, stir together the flour, the cornmeal, the baking powder and the salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the milk, the egg and the butter. Add the milk mixture to the cornmeal mixture and stir the batter until it is just combined.
Pour the batter into a greased 8-inch square baking pan and bake the cornbread in the middle of a preheated 425 degree F. oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the top is pale golden and a tester comes out clean.
Let the cornbread cool in the pan for 5 minutes, invert it onto a rack and let it cool completely.
***
Make the Stuffing:
Crumble the corn bread coarse into 2 jelly roll pans, bake it in the middle of a preheated 325 degree F. oven, stirring occasionally, for 30-35 minutes or until it is dry and deep golden, and transfer it to a large bowl.
In a large skillet, cook the onion and celery with salt and pepper to taste in ½ stick of the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the vegetables are softened and transfer the mixture to the bowl of corn bread. TFD note – If using the sausage, cook this first and in the same skillet, cook the onion and celery, then drain the fat and add to the bowl in place of the butter.
Add the chestnuts, the sage, the thyme, the rosemary, the parsley, the remaining 1 stick of butter, melted and salt and pepper to taste, toss the mixture gently until it is combined well and let it cool. The mixture may be prepared ahead up to this point 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled. Just before making the stuffing, stir into the mixture the apples, peeled, cored and cut into ¼ inch pieces.
Transfer the stuffing to a buttered 2-quart baking dish and reserve it, covered and chilled.
During the last hour of the turkey cooking, bake the reserved stuffing, drizzled with 1 cup of turkey stock and covered loosely, in the 325 degree F. oven.
***
Potato and Turnip Purée:
3 pounds russet (baking) potatoes
2 pounds turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ stick ( ¼ cup ) unsalted butter, softened
freshly-ground white pepper to taste
In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces, with enough cold water to cover them by 1 inch. Bring the water to a boil, and simmer the potatoes for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender.
While the potatoes are cooking, in a steamer set over boiling water, steam the turnips, covered, for 12-15 minutes or until they are very tender.
In a food processor, puree the turnips. Drain the potatoes in a large colander, return them to the pan and cook them over moderate heat, shaking the pan, for 30 seconds to evaporate any excess liquid.
Force the potatoes through a ricer of the medium disk of a food mill into a bowl, add the butter, stirring until it is melted, and stir in the turnip purée, the white pepper and salt to taste.
The purée may be made 1 day in advance, kept covered and chilled and reheated. Makes about 6 cups, serving 8.
***
Glazed Carrots and Parsnips:
1 ¼ cups chicken broth
½ stick ( ¼ cup ) unsalted butter
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 lbs. carrots, cut into sticks 2 by ¼ by ¼ inches (about 4 cups)
2 lbs. parsnips, cut into sticks 2 by ¼ by ¼ inches (about 4 cups)
3 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley leaves
In a large saucepan, combine the broth, the butter, the sugar, and the salt and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the carrots and cook the mixture, covered, over moderately high heat, for 1 minute.
Add the parsnips and and cook the mixture, covered, for 4-5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
Transfer the vegetables with a slotted spoon to a bowl and keep them warm, covered. Boil the cooking liquid until it is reduced to about 1/3 cup and pour it over the vegetables.
The vegetables may be prepared to this point 1 day in advance, kept covered and chilled, and reheated.
Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste and toss the mixture gently. Serves 8.
12 oz. bag (3 ¼ cups) fresh cranberries, picked over and rinsed
1 Tbsp. freshly grated orange rind
In a large saucepan, combine the orange juice and the sugar, bring the mixture to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, and add the cranberries.
Bring the mixture back to a boil, and simmer it, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes or until it is reduced to about 2 cups.
Stir in the rind and pour the mixture into a well-oiled 2-cup decorative mold. Let the cranberry sauce cool to room temperature and chill it, covered for at least 1 day and up to 3 days.
Dip the mold in a pan of hot water for 1 minute, invert it onto a serving plate and shake it gently to release. Makes about 2 cups, serves 8.
***
TFD’s Peas and Pearl Onions with Lemon-Dill-Mint Butter:
Cook frozen onions in small amount of boiling water in a large covered saucepan for 2 minutes. Add peas; cook, covered, 2 to 3 minutes or just until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally. Drain well. Set aside.
Melt butter in small saucepan on medium heat. Stir in dill, mint, lemon, salt and pepper. Drizzle butter mixture over vegetables; toss gently to coat.
***
Rolls (TFD likes Parker House Rolls and this is the original recipe from the Parker House Hotel – you can’t get more authentic than this!
______________________________
Parker House Rolls: Recipe courtesy Omni Parker House Hotel, Boston, Massachusetts
6 cups all-purpose flour (about)
½ cup sugar
2 tsp. salt
2 packages active dry yeast
1 cup margarine or butter (2 sticks), softened (TFD note – I’d use butter)
1 large egg
In a large bowl, combine 2 ¼ cups flour, sugar, salt, and yeast; add ½ cup margarine or butter (1 stick). With mixer at low speed, gradually pour 2 cups hot tap water (120 degrees F to 130 degrees F.) into dry ingredients. Add egg; increase speed to medium; beat 2 minutes, scraping bowl with rubber spatula. Beat in ¾ cup flour or enough to make a thick batter; continue beating 2 minutes, occasionally scraping bowl. With spoon, stir in enough additional flour (about 2 ½ cups) to make a soft dough.
Turn dough onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes, working in more flour (about ½ cup) while kneading. Shape dough into a ball and place in greased large bowl, turning over so that top of dough is greased. Cover with towel; let rise in warm place (80 to 85 degrees F.) until doubled, about 1 ½ hours. (Dough is doubled when 2 fingers pressed into dough leave a dent.)
Punch down dough by pushing down the center or dough with fist, then pushing edges of dough into center. Turn dough onto lightly floured surface; knead lightly to make smooth ball, cover with bowl for 15 minutes, and let dough rest.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
In 17 ¼-inch by 11 ½-inch roasting pan, over low heat, melt remaining ½ cup margarine or butter; tilt pan to grease bottom.
On lightly floured surface with floured rolling pin, roll dough ½ inch thick. With floured 2 ¾-inch round cutter, cut dough into circles. Holding dough circle by the edge, dip both sides into melted margarine or butter pan; fold in half. Arrange folded dough in rows in pans, each nearly touching the other. Cover pan with towel; let dough rise in warm place until doubled, about 40 minutes.
Bake rolls for 15 to 18 minutes until browned.
***
TFD addition October, 2019 – Scott Peacock’s country ham sweet and spicy butter:
12 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature
2 tsp. finely-grated fresh ginger (from a 1-inch piece)
Stir together butter, ginger, ham, and honey; season with ¼ tsp. salt and a pinch of pepper. (Butter can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.)
***
TFD ADDITION, 11/16/2010: This Thomas Keller recipe for a gourmet green bean casserole would also be magnificent to include!
Green-Bean Casserole—Oven-Baked Haricots Verts With Cream of California Cèpe Mushrooms and Crispy Shallots – from Thomas Keller of Per Se:
Serves 8 people
8 medium cèpes, cleaned (porcini or white button mushrooms can be substituted)
1 quart plus 4 Tbsp. canola oil
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 yellow onion, finely minced
1 tsp. thyme leaves, finely minced
½ cup chicken stock
1 cup cream
1 ½ cups flour
2 Tbsp. butter
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Juice of 1 lemon, to taste
⅔ cup kosher salt
2 ½ pounds haricots verts, cut into 1-inch batons
15 large shallots, peeled
⅓ cup chopped parsley
Cut the bottom half of the stem off each cèpe and cut the base into a ¼-inch dice. Slice the remaining cèpe into sixths from top to bottom and reserve.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium saucepan. Add the diced mushroom stems, garlic, and onions, and sweat until the onions are translucent. Add the thyme, stock, and cream, and bring to a boil. Mix ¼ cup of flour with the butter in a small bowl to form a paste. Remove the saucepan from the heat and slowly whisk in the butter-and-flour mixture until incorporated. Return the sauce to a simmer and cook gently for 15 minutes, whisking constantly to prevent the bottom from burning. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
Bring 7 quarts of water to a boil, add kosher salt, and return to a fast boil. Add haricots verts and blanch until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the beans and chill in ice water. Drain again, and dry the beans on paper towels.
Add 1 quart oil to a large saucepan and heat to 325 degrees. Holding the shallots at the root end, slice very thinly on a mandoline. Place the shallots in a mixing bowl, add the flour, and toss together until the shallots have separated into rings. Add all the shallots to the saucepan at once and fry, stirring constantly, until they are lightly browned. Drain, place on paper towels, and season with salt.
To finish, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sauté the reserved cèpes in 2 tablespoons oil until golden brown. In a large bowl, combine the cèpes, cream of cèpe, and haricots verts. Check the seasoning and adjust accordingly. Transfer to an ovenproof casserole dish and bake uncovered for 15 minutes. Sprinkle parsley and the crispy shallots on top.
***
Apple Cider, white wine (TFD prefers Riesling or Gewürztraminer), still and sparking water (TFD prefers Mountain Valley spring water from Arkansas)
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