Xiaosurou Image Used Under Creative Commons License From icook.tw
Citizens! It has been a long two months here at My secret Antarctic lair here on the fiery Hephaestan shoulder of Mount Erebus, due to incredibly heavy work burdens (the glorious food revolution championed by the Generalissimo demands constant vigilance!) and soon I hope to enjoy a much-needed mental health break. That said, I am achieving restoration in a humble bite of Sichuanese pork and will now share the history and recipe for Sichuan xiaosurou!
Xiaosurou (小酥肉), or little crispy pork, is deep-fried fatty pork adorned with plenty of numbing Sichuan pepper, which is the defining flavor profile of the dish and is a common street food in China. Typically, it consists of fatty rib meat that is coated in a batter containing eggs and subsequently deep-fried. The crispy pork dish has its roots in Sichuan, a province known for its exceptionally bold flavors and highly spiced dishes.
In Sichuan, it is very common to have crisp pork served with hot pot, but it has since spread all over China. In Shanxi, crispy pork is one of the “three Shanxi-style steamed dishes”. Fried purple crispy pork from Henan is a local specialty, one of the “Eight Big Bowls” in Xun County and Qi County, Hebi. Crispy pork is one of the “Nine Big Bowls” in Shaanxi. In Minnan and Taiwan, there is also pork tenderloin marinated in vinegar before frying, called “vinegar pork”. In rural areas of Yunnan, a similar preparation of crispy fried pork is served in small bowls as part of a larger feast, shared by Dianxi Xiaoge.
Xiaosurou is a very humble dish not seen usually outside of China as frequently as other dishes, as xiaosurou’s history in Sichuan shows a significant shift – in the past, particularly during the 1970s, it was a luxury item reserved for special occasions like Lunar New Year due to the scarcity of meat in the province due to the Cultural Revolution. As Chinese people became more affluent, the availability of meat increased, making xiaosurou a common and beloved dish.
In many areas of rural China, pig feasts have long functioned as a vital ritual exchange among co-dependent farm households. Called sha nian zhu (roughly translated as “killing the year’s pig”), the annual reciprocal feast has traditionally served to maintain community identities, provide aid, and strengthen social ties and it was traditionally after this that the rare surplus of pork bits would be put to proper communal use by the family and village alike.
In a nostalgic post on chillcrispbyxueci.substack.com, the author waxes eloquent regarding xiaosurou:
Su rou (酥肉), sometimes referred to as xiaosurou, is deep-fried crispy pork strips, seasoned with loads of Sichuan pepper. This is an off-record Sichuan dish commonly found at traditional rural banquets and home tables. You’ll rarely encounter it in Chinese restaurants in the West, maybe occasionally at hot pot restaurants like Xiaolongkan, nor find English-written recipes.
Along with bing fen (a cold jelly dessert) and pounded rice cake (ci ba 糍粑), su rou forms what’s known as the trinity of hot pot snacks. While you waiting for your food to cook, these snacks keep your mouth busy and help balance the heat.
Today, almost every hot pot restaurant features this on the menu in Sichuan or Chongqing. However, in the past when my parents were growing up in the 70s, it was considered a precious delicacy reserved for special occasions due to the scarcity of meat. This tradition may also stem from the rural practice of sha nian zhu, where an annual pig is slaughtered for a big feast (as shared by Dianxi Xiaoge in the Yunnan version).
In Sichuan rural banquets for weddings or funerals, larger chunks of crispy fried pork are steamed in broth and served in small bowls. On New Year’s Eve, children would snack on the fried pork while the adults prepared for the big meal. A large batch of su rou would be prepared and saved for days during the New Year celebration, often repurposed into soups and stews. My mom recalls that her favorite was made into soup with pea shoots and kelp strips.
Xiaosurou is so humble that there is no real provenance I have been able to discover beyond the previous – but that doesn’t mean this is ANYTHING but delicious, Citizens! My version is elevated beyond its humble roots and into the realm of true gastronomy by My skillful layering of condiments, seasonings and techniques. You will need several Chinese and Sichuanese ingredients – the most important of which is the Sichuan Peppercorns that are the defining flavor profile of this dish!
Sichuan pepper (Chinese: 花椒; pinyin: huājiāo) is a spice made from the dried pericarp (outer shell of the fruit) of a plant commonly used in the Sichuan cuisine of China and in the cuisines of the Himalayas. Despite its name, Sichuan pepper is not closely related to black pepper or chili peppers – rather, it is in the same family as citrus and rue.
When eaten, Sichuan pepper produces a tingling, numbing effect due to the presence of hydroxy-alpha sanshool. It is used in Sichuan dishes such as mapo doufu and Chongqing hot pot, and is often added to chili peppers to create a flavor known as málà (Chinese: 麻辣; ‘numb-spiciness’). Sichuan pepper is an important spice in Chinese, Nepali, Kashmiri, north east Indian, Tibetan, and Bhutanese cookery of the Himalayas.
Sichuan pepper has a citrus-like flavor and induces a tingling numbness in the mouth, akin to a 50-hertz vibration, due to the presence of hydroxy-alpha sanshool. Food historian Harold McGee describes the effect of sanshools thus:
“…they produce a strange, tingling, buzzing, numbing sensation that is something like the effect of carbonated drinks or of a mild electric current (touching the terminals of a nine-volt battery to the tongue). Sanshools appear to act on several different kinds of nerve endings at once, induce sensitivity to touch and cold in nerves that are ordinarily nonsensitive, and so perhaps cause a kind of general neurological confusion.”
Whole, green, freshly picked Sichuan pepper may be used in cooking, but dried Sichuan pepper is more commonly used. Once dried, the shiny black seeds inside the husk are discarded, along with any stems; the husk is what we know as Sichuan pepper or peppercorn. The peppercorn may be used whole or finely ground, as it is in five-spice powder. Ma la sauce (Chinese: 麻辣; pinyin: málà; lit. ’numbing and spicy’), common in Sichuan cooking, is a combination of Sichuan pepper and chili pepper, and it is a key ingredient in Chongqing hot pot.
Sichuan pepper is also available as an oil (Chinese: 花椒油, marketed as either “Sichuan pepper oil”, “Bunge prickly ash oil”, or “huajiao oil”). Sichuan pepper infused oil can be used in dressing, dipping sauces, or any dish in which the flavor of the peppercorn is desired without the texture of the peppercorns themselves.
Hua jiao yan (simplified Chinese: 花椒盐; traditional Chinese: 花椒鹽; pinyin: huājiāoyán) is a mixture of salt and Sichuan pepper, toasted and browned in a wok, and served as a condiment to accompany chicken, duck, and pork dishes. The leaves of the Sichuan pepper tree are also used in soups and fried foods.
One Himalayan specialty is the momo, a dumpling stuffed with vegetables, cottage cheese, or minced yak or beef, and flavored with Sichuan pepper, garlic, ginger, and onion. In Nepal, the mala flavor is known as timur (टिमुर). In Bhutan, it is used in preparing ezay (a side dish similar to chutney), to add spiciness to rice porridge (ཐུགཔ་), ba-thup and noodle (buckwheat noodles similar to soba) and other snacks. It is extensively used in preparing blood sausages throughout Bhutan and Tibet.
The best Sichuan peppercorns are DEMANDED in this recipe and only one source in the United States carries the top-grade, known as “Tribute” as they were once reserved solely for Imperial tribute from Sichuan province! The Mala Market is your go-to and this is the link – be warned that A LITTLE GOES A VERY LONG WAY!!! To give additional savor to the fried pork, I call for adding a bit of bacon fat to the frying oil – while not traditional in the least – IT IS FREAKING DELICIOUS.
I also optionally call for 13-spice powder in My sublime version of this recipe, because it adds additional flavor complexity FAR beyond standard 5-spice – buy it from here. For additional heat and smokiness, I use chipotle powder and also call for Knorr Aromat instead of salt, as it has a far more “rounded” umami flavor than straight salt. I have also chosen to use a delicious dipping sauce with My version of xiaosurou – it’s not standard, but it’s very tasty indeed!
My favorite brands of sesame oil, oyster sauce, chili paste with black beans, Shaoxing rice wine, European Maggi seasoning, and sweet potato starch are all at their respective links. Obviously, I have chosen to elevate this extremely simple original dish of fried pork bits with Sichuan peppercorns into a true gastronomic indulgence, as there must be only the finest recipe for xiaosurou available to My beloved Citizens at TFD Nation – even for the most humble of dishes!
Toast the whole Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan over medium-low heat for 3 – 5 minutes, until fragrant. Then grind them in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle.
In a medium bowl, combine the pork strips with the ginger, garlic, chili paste with black beans, oyster sauce, Shaoxing wine, half the ground Sichuan peppercorns, light soy sauce, sesame oil, Maggi and ⅛ teaspoon Aromat. Toss everything together until the pork is evenly coated and has absorbed all the liquid. Marinate for 30 minutes while you prepare the batter and oil.
In a large bowl, combine the sweet potato starch, eggs, baking soda, the remaining ½ teaspoon Aromat, plus the remaining ground Sichuan peppercorn, white pepper, Chipotle powder and 13 spice. Mix until there are no lumps. The batter will feel thick at first, but just keep stirring until the potato starch absorbs into the batter.
Fill a small, deep pot with about 2 inches (5cm) of mixed oil and bacon fat. Heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 375°F/190°C (use an instant-read thermometer). The oil will immediately cool down when you add the pork. Keep the oil temperature at about 350°F-375°F throughout the frying process.
While the oil is preheating, add the pork to the batter, and mix well until the pork pieces are evenly coated.
Lower the pork pieces one at a time into the oil, keep a bit of space between each piece to prevent sticking. Fry in batches (do not overcrowd the pot).
Turn the pieces until they float to the surface and the coating hardens and turns a light golden brown color—about 4-5 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate. Repeat with the remaining pork.
After the first fry, fry the pork for a second time (the second fry really gets them crispy). Do this in batches for 3 minutes (longer for a crunchier texture), until the pork is very crispy and a deep golden color.
Combine dipping sauce ingredients lightly in food processor. Serve immediately, garnished with minced scallion condiment and the previously ground Sichuan peppercorns – be lavish!
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