The Hirshon Omani Beef Mishkak With Tamarind Sauce – مشكاك

My most esteemed and beloved Citizens of TFD Nation! BEHOLD in awe and wonder the latest scintillating post from the Sultan of Spice, the Hetman of History – YOUR TFD! – as I educate your mind and satisfy your refined palate in a kaleidoscopic explosion of flavor rarely seen in this day and age! Today, we visit the storied country of Oman for a unique hybrid recipe showcasing not only the finest in Middle Eastern cuisine, but also a condiment profoundly associated with East Africa! How and why both mishkak (shish kebab) and its staple sauce are forever indelibly East African will assuredly fascinate you!

The answer is unsurprising when you consider that Oman was once one of the most powerful maritime trading empires in the world, had close relationships with both the British AND the Americans and long visited the Eastern portion of the motherland of humanity – a simple map proves how closely aligned Oman and East Africa actually are!

The Omani Empire (Arabic: الْإِمْبَرَاطُورِيَّة الْعُمَانِيَّة) was a maritime empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for trade and influence in the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean. After rising as a regional player in the 18th century, the empire at its peak in the 19th century saw its influence or control extend across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Cape Delgado.

Muscat, which is located in a strategic location on trade routes, came under the control of the Portuguese Empire between 1507 and 1650. However, the Portuguese did not succeed in controlling Oman in its entirety. In mid-17th century, the Omani tribes were able to end the Portuguese presence in Muscat. In 1696, under the reign of Saif bin Sultan, an Omani fleet attacked Mombasa, besieging the Portuguese Fort Jesus, in which 2,500 civilians had taken refuge. The siege of the fort ended after 33 months when the garrison, dying of hunger, surrendered to the Omanis.

By 1783, the Omani Empire had expanded eastwards to Gwadar in present-day Pakistan. The Omanis also continued attacking Portuguese bases in western India, but failed to conquer any. In the north, the Omanis moved into the Persian Gulf, taking Bahrain from the Persians, holding it for several years.

The expansion of Omani power and influence southwards included the first large-scale settlement of Zanzibar by Omani migrants, marking the beginning of a powerful Omani presence and highly-lucrative trade with East Africa (and thus where the taste for both mishkak and its sauce came from – more on that later).

The Ya’rubids (1624–1719) managed to construct a powerful and well-organized state after the Portuguese had disrupted Arabian maritime trade in the region. The Portuguese encroachment which had engulfed the area in an economic crisis was challenged by the Omanis, where the latter managed to restore their traditional role as local maritime traders. Along with this, significant economic and political developments took place.

Saif bin Sultan died on 4 October 1711. He was buried in the castle of Rustaq in a luxurious tomb, later destroyed by a Wahhabi general. At his death he had great wealth, said to include 28 ships, 700 male slaves and one third of Oman’s date trees. He was succeeded by his son Sultan bin Saif II (r. 1711–1718), who established his capital at Al-Hazm on the road from Rustaq to the coast. Now just a village, there still are remains of a great fortress that he built around 1710, and which contains his tomb.

Sultan bin Ahmad assumed control of the government after the death of his nephew and strengthened the already powerful fleet by adding numerous gunships and sleek cargo vessels, he also needed a strong ally to help him regain control of Mombasa from the Mazrui clan. he also had to fight off the movement spreading from what is now Saudi Arabia and to keep the Qasimi tribes from the Persian city of Lengeh out of Oman.

He found this able ally in Great Britain, which in the late 18th century was at war with France. He knew that the French emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte, was planning to march through Persia and capture Muscat on his way to invade India. As such, in 1798, Britain and Oman agreed on a Treaty of Commerce and Navigation.

Sultan bin Ahmad pledged himself to British interests in India, and his territories became out of bounds to the French. He allowed the British East India Company to establish the first trading station in the Persian Gulf, and a British consul was posted to Muscat. As well as defeating Bonaparte, the British had another motive for the treaty with Oman: they wanted to put pressure on the sultan to end slavery, which had been declared illegal in England in 1772.

At this time, the trade from Africa to Oman was still buoyant, and Zanzibar’s position as an important trade centre was bolstered further when the supply of ivory from Mozambique to India collapsed because of excessive Portuguese export duties. The traders simply shipped their ivory through Zanzibar instead. Omani warships were in constant skirmishes up and down the gulf, which kept Sultan preoccupied. It was in the course of one of his sorties during an incursion abroad a ship in the Persian Gulf in 1804 that Sayyid Sultan was shot in the head by a stray bullet. He was buried in Lengeh.

On 21 September 1833, a historic treaty of friendship and trade was signed with the United States. It was the second trade treaty formulated by the US and an Arab state (Morocco being the first in 1820). The United States and Oman both stood to benefit, as the US – unlike Britain and France – had no territorial ambitions in the Middle East and was solely interested in commerce. On 13 April 1840, the ship Al-Sultanah docked at New York, making it the first Arab envoy to ever visit the New World. Her crew of fifty-six Arab sailors caused a flurry of excitement among the three hundred thousand residents of that thriving metropolis.

Al-Sultanah carried ivory, Persian rugs, spices, coffee and dates, as well as lavish gifts for President Martin Van Buren. The visit of Al-Sultanah lasted nearly four months, in which time the emissary, Ahmad bin Na’aman Al Kaabi, the first Arab emissary to visit the United States (whose portrait can still be seen in the Oman and Zanzibar display of the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts) and his officers were entertained by state and city dignitaries.

They received resolutions passed by official bodies, were given tours of New York City and saw sections which would, a few decades later, become Arabic-speaking immigrant neighborhoods. Among Bin Na’aman’s hosts was Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, in whose home he met Governor William H. Seward and Vice President Richard Mentor Johnson. The visit of Al Kaabi to America was a happy one, and when he prepared to leave, the United States bade a fond farewell to Al-Sultanah and presented him with gifts for his Sultan.

In 1832, Said bin Sultan transferred the capital from Oman to Zanzibar. At that time, the empire’s African dominion extended along the Swahili coast to 12 miles south of the Ruvuma River in Mozambique. Although the empire’s primary governance was concentrated along the coastline, it also established control over numerous African tributary states and designated governors for inland regions.

Under the 1798 Anglo-Omani Treaty of Friendship, Britain guaranteed the sultan’s rule. After the death of Said bin Sultan in 1856, the empire was divided between his sons into two Sultanates, an African section (Sultanate of Zanzibar) ruled by Majid bin Said and an Asian section (Sultanate of Muscat and Oman) ruled by Thuwaini bin Said.

A fascinating paper on the Omani influence on East Africa may be found here, and I encourage you to read it in its entirety if – like Me – you relish historical information! I shall excerpt several paragraphs below from it that are especially relevant to this post and recipe.

By the 19th century, the East African coast was under the Sultanate of Oman superintendent from Muscat, Oman‘s capital at the time. The Omani commercial Prince, Sayyid Said (1790-1856), also known as Said Ibn Sultan was a famous Arabian personality in the history of East Africa. He ruled Zanzibar and Oman from 1806-1856. This period was shared – 30 years of his reign was in Muscat and the rest was in Zanzibar. He was a pious man of the Ibadhism Islamic sect.

This is a peaceful and tolerant Islamic sect that advocated the return of Islam to its original state, with emphasis on good personal conduct, strong spiritual values, and a tolerance of all creeds and tribes. At the turn of the century, the Omani presence was significantly evident in only three main centres: Mombasa, Zanzibar and Kilwa.

Historically members of merchant communities, having contacts at various points in the Indian Ocean trading region, had, for a variety of commercial, religious and political reasons, moved from environments where they had been relatively disadvantaged to ones where they were more favourably treated (Chaudhuri; Martins in Bhacker 68).

In nineteenth century East Africa, many traders in Zanzibar were Omani Arabs, some of whom having chosen to migrate in order to join their co-nationals, already settled in Africa since at least the expansionist era of the Ya‘ariba. Like their predecessors, these later arrivals were with time integrated, either wholly or partially, within the expanding Swahili‘ community (Bhacker 68). Bhacker Reda‘s study on the Omani provides three interesting themes that shaped their history.

He notes, Maritime trade, Imamate Government and tribalism are three of the most pervasive themes in the history of Oman. Whilst the outlines of the Omani tribal structure, like those of long-distance commerce, antedate the advent of Islam, the final form of tribalism has been strongly influenced by the political dimensions of the Imamate Government following the rise of Islam. The choice of Zanzibar, Kilwa, Mombasa, Pemba and other coastal city-states by Oman was majorly economical.

In the first half of the nineteenth century the continuing rise in demand for ivory in India, Europe and the United States of America; the expansion from the second decade onwards of the slave trade with slaves destined for both the local plantation economy and export; and the decline in the price of the leading imports, cotton goods, all contributed to make the terms of trade very lucrative on the East African coast (Bhacker 64). 

So – as can be seen thanks to My extensive research, there should be no surprise whatsoever that modern-day Oman should have developed a taste for both mishkak and ukwaju (Tamarind) Sauce – both of which have long a staple of East African Tanzanian cuisine (which today includes Zanzibar!) and the Swahili tribes throughout the entirety of the East African region!

It is – frankly – no more bizarre than the plethora of recipes in Europe and Asia using tomatoes and chili peppers, which originate from South America and were brought home by the Spanish and Portuguese traders and conquistadors in the 16th and 17th centuries to become firmly rooted in non-native culinary soil! Don’t even get me started on spices from the East and pasta (which originated in China!).

Food ethnohistory – truly FASCINATING!

Now – as to mishkak, our recipe of the moment!

In Swahili, “mishkaki” literally translates to “skewer”, aptly describing how the meat is prepared – the tender beef is grilled over open flame with hints of cumin, garlic, and chili and mishkak (I will henceforth use the Omani spelling) has been a favorite in Africa and Oman for generations. Mishkak kabobs have their roots in Swahili cuisine, which has been influenced by various trade routes passing through East Africa. The complex mix of spices mirrors the wide range of influences on Swahili cooking, showcasing its prominence in global trade.

The dish resembles other kabob skewers enjoyed in the Middle East and North Africa, illustrating how migration and commerce facilitated the exchange of culinary ideas. As it evolved over the years, mishkak became ingrained in Tanzania’s street food culture. At present, mishak is an iconic street food in Tanzania. Mishkak is ubiquitous in cities like Dar es Salaam (Zanzibar) and Arusha (mainland Tanzania). You will find vendors with sizzling skewers on busy street corners, markets, and bus stations…and the 19th century Omani traders brought the dish home to Muscat, their capital city.

In Swahili, “ukwaju” simply means “tamarind” and this sweet, sour and spicy sauce made its way to Oman along with mishkak – complete with the full Swahili etymology, I might add! My version of both mishkak and ukwaju (the Omani versions) hews closely to tradition – though I have invoked several ancient deities of culinary prowess to aid Me in the conjuring of the maximum flavor from both recipes, as is My wont as the High Priest of Paraphrasing! Unusually (at least in My recipes) there are few outré ingredients in this dish – equal benisons to both your wallet and time.

The Omani version of the recipe does call for date vinegar, a staple in the Middle East and necessary to both tenderize the meat (along with raw papaya paste, which contains an enzyme that is a most effective tenderizer!) and add additional flavor. Mercifully, Amazon stocks date vinegar and it may be purchased from here.

Tamarind paste (which has been pre-prepared) is a necessity, of course – you can purchase it easily from here – I have added a strong hit in the ukwaju sauce of a classic Omani spice blend, which is not traditional but IS delicious. Needless to say – you are dead to Me if you cook this in any other way but over charcoal, Citizen!

Mishkak and ukwaju have made a long, overseas journey from Tanzania/Zanzibar to the Middle East – and now you are fully cognizant of how not just ingredients but entire dishes can migrate from continent to continent! I have every confidence this will become a new favorite recipe for you and yours! If I were you, I would personally counsel serving a first course of Omani shurbah vegetable soup and finish with a most exotic treat – Omani frankincense custard ice cream! 😀

Battle on – the Generalissimo

The Hirshon Omani Beef Mishkak With Tamarind Sauce – مشكاك

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• Author: The Generalissimo

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Ingredients

Units USM Scale 1x2x3x

• 2 1/4 lb. NY strip steak, cubed into bite-sized pieces (you can substitute lamb or chicken, if you so prefer)
• ***
• Marinade:
• 4 Tbsp. grated raw papaya
• 1 tsp. turmeric powder
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 tsp. chipotle powder (TFD change, original was chili powder)
• 1 Fresno pepper
• 2 Tbsp. garlic paste
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. ginger paste
• 1 Tbsp. minced onion
• 2 Tbsp. fresh cilantro paste
• 1 tsp. freshly-ground cumin
• 1 tsp. freshly-ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. freshly-ground green cardamon
• 3 Tbsp. tamarind paste
• 4 Tbsp. date vinegar (preferred), apple cider vinegar can substitute
• 3 Tbsp. neutral oil
• ***
• Ukwaju (Tamarind) sauce:
• 3/4 cup prepared, ready-to-use tamarind paste
• 3 cloves peeled garlic
• 1 small onion, peeled and diced
• 2 jalapeño peppers, diced without seeds
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1/2 Tbsp. Omani Bezar spice mix, made from:
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. cumin seeds
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. coriander seeds
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. fennel seeds
• 2 dried chiles de arbol
• 1 1/2 Tbsp. turmeric powder
• pinch of cinnamon
• ***
• salad, bread for garnish

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Instructions

1. Combine all marinade ingredients in a blender or food processor.
2. Dip skewered beef into marinade, ensuring the meat is totally covered. Leave to marinate over night at a minimum (48 hours is recommended).
3. Make the Omani bezar spice mix:
4. Dry roast all ingredients (except turmeric and cinnamon powders) one by one till they turn aromatic. Take care not to burn any of the spices. You want the flavors here, not the smoky charred smell in your mix!
5. After you roast the last spice, remove the pan from heat and add the turmeric and cinnamon powders to it. Let it remain in the pan for a minute or two. Keep stirring all the while with a wooden spoon as turmeric burns very easily.
6. Let everything cool down to room temperature and grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder. Store excess remainder an airtight container at room temperature.
7. Make the ukwaju sauce:
8. Combine all sauce ingredients in a food processor, keep in fridge until ready.
9. Cook the mishkak:
10. Skewer the meat, then cook under an oven broiler or over a hot charcoal grill (strongly preferred).
11. You can brush the meat at periodic times throughout the process with oil and be sure to turn regularly. Cook until charred on the outside. This is your indication that the mishkak are ready, if you leave them for too long, they will be dry.
12. Serve with ukwaju sauce, fresh salad and warm bread.