The Hirshon New Jersey Tomato Pie Pizza with Sausage and Herbed Garlic Oil

My supremely superlative Citizenry – I, the Monarch of Manhattan, the Qore of Queens, the Bey of the Bronx, the Basileus of Brooklyn and the Sultan of Staten Island, must now make a most difficult statement. An admission that forces my very tongue to cleave to My palate in abysmal shame, a watershed moment that is the Watership Down of My soul – a confession that will rend the very animus from My body and end all innocence left to Me: My favorite style of pizza is from…New Jersey. Specifically, the reverse pizza known colloquially and with supreme gravitas as New Jersey tomato pie.

THE SHAME!!!

I am a great fan of all TRUE pizza (the casserole abomination that is Chicago Deep Dish is one I shall not dignify with such a noble monicker as pizza – just call it a casserole and I’m all in favor of it #pizzaholywars!) Some might say I am being overly tyrannical in writing this – much as in this expository scene filmed by a documentary crew in Staten Island of a certain spiritual Brother of mine offering perfectly reasonable terms of surrender to the local City Council:

All joking aside, pizza is truly a dish worthy of both song and story – and while I firmly believe a NY-style foldable slice is a near apotheosis of gustatory delight – the New Jersey tomato pie takes it for its unique emphasis on the essence of tomato flavor. From the truly micro-level specificity of Quad City pizza to more well-known styles of New Haven and Detroit and more, the number of unique pizzas to be sampled in our great country is simply mirabile dictu!

In a nutshell, New Jersey tomato pie is a very micro-regional pizza that puts the sauce on TOP of the cheese so you can really taste it – and if you know anything about the Garden State, you know its tomatoes are the best in the country and deserve this kind of showcase! More on the recipe soon, but first – the HISTORY!

Trenton tomato pie or New Jersey tomato pie is a type of circular, thin-crust Italian tomato pie created in Trenton, New Jersey, United States, around the early 20th century in which cheese and other toppings are added on first, then the sauce.

The distinction between pizza and New Jersey tomato pie is in the process of making the pizza itself. Unlike the thicker square Italian tomato pie preferred in Philadelphia, New Jersey tomato pie is often circular, of the thin-crust variety and includes cheese. In this style of tomato pie, the mozzarella and toppings are placed on the pie first followed by the tomato sauce placed on top.

The first New Jersey tomato pie in the United States was actually sold sold in New York City at Lombardi’s which opened in 1905 (TFD NOTE – YES, My NYC soul is saved!). Joe’s Tomato Pie (now defunct), which opened in 1910, was the first made in New Jersey tomato pie and Papa’s Tomato Pies, whose proprietor learned the trade at Joe’s, was opened two years later in 1912.

The Trenton region is home to the two oldest currently operating New Jersey tomato pie restaurants in the United States, Papa’s and De Lorenzo’s. New Jersey tomato pie shops have expanded across the region – in 1991, Palermo’s opened in Bordentown, New Jersey. In September 2017, Classico Tomato Pies opened in West Windsor and won best Trenton tomato pie by the Bridgewater Courier News.

As well-elucidated in New Jersey Digest:

New Jersey has the best pizza in the country. This is canon. With the state’s large variety of styles, NJ cemented itself within the pizza hall of fame long ago. However, one style hailing from the greater Trenton area differs from the rest. The Trenton Tomato Pie is Central Jersey’s biggest kept secret.

Well, it depends on who you’re asking. Philly natives will describe it as something similar to a Sfincione— a square, focaccia-like pizza topped with tomatoes, salt and extra virgin olive oil served cold. In New England, you’ll get more-or-less the same with slight variation. In Trenton, the answer could not be further from that. Trenton tomato pie marries styles together.

It is a culmination of pizza excellence, and the locals wouldn’t have it any other way. Round, thin and crisp dough is sprinkled with cheese and toppings first before being splattered with the highest quality crushed tomatoes, like Jackson Pollock flailing his paintbrush at a canvas on the floor. For over 100 years, this abstract, tomato-forward pizza has maintained its cult following.

It all started around the turn of the 20th century with Joe’s Tomato Pies on South Clinton Ave in Trenton. Along with being the first establishment to dish out the tomato pie, Joe’s is significant because of one young man who spent time working there. Giuseppe “Joe” Papa immigrated to the US from Naples, Italy and began making pies at Joe’s when he was just 15 years old. Two years later, at the young age of 17, Papa opened Papa’s Tomato Pies in 1912— thus beginning the legendary story of the Trenton tomato pie as we know it today.

110 years have passed by, and Papa’s remains operational— making it the oldest family-owned and continually run pizzeria in the country. Originally housed on Butler street in Trenton, Papa’s moved to Chamber’s Street in 1945 where Papa’s son-in-law, Domink “Abie” Azzaro eventually took over the operation with his wife and Papa’s daughter, Teresa Papa.

They dished out tomato pies from this location for nearly 70 years. In 2013 the restaurant moved just outside of Trenton to the quaint and unassuming Robbinsville, NJ where they are still located to this day— owned and operated by Abie and Teresa’s son, Nick Azzaro.

So, what prompted the move to the suburbs in 2013? A plethora of reasons went into the decision-making, I’m sure, but what seems to have been a driving force for the move was a rival shop doing it first.

Alexander “Chick” De Lorenzo opened De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies on Hudson Street in Trenton in 1947. Alongside his wife, Sophie, the couple operated the pizzeria for nearly 40 years before retiring and handing it off to their daughter, Eileen Amico, and grandson, Sam Amico. Like Papa’s before it, De Lorenzo’s is an institution. It is a place for regulars to come and enjoy the tomato pie they grew up on, or for pizza aficionados across the globe to come and try a slice of history.

While still making tomato pies in Trenton, Sam Amico opened a Robbinsville location in 2007, expanding the reach of the tomato pie into the suburbs. It was no longer a commodity only obtained by traveling into Trenton. When Sam’s parents decided to retire in 2012, the Trenton location retired along with them. Later on, a DeLorenzo’s opened just over the river in Yardley, PA as well.

In the Trenton area, you are either a Papa’s family, or a De Lorenzo’s family. Food rivalries like this are anything but abnormal in New Jersey. Rutt’s Hut versus Hot Grill and White Mana versus White Manna are other examples of such. These clashes are the result of a natural competitive attitude that seems to be intertwined throughout the DNA of everyone who spends even a lick of time in the Garden State. A competitive nature that attracts two foes to one another.

But what these rivalries also present is two masters of their craft dishing it out to create something even greater than the sum of their parts; a story.

That is why less than a year after the original De Lorenzo’s closed in Trenton, Papa’s followed them to Robbinsville, because what is either establishment without the other?

Papa’s and De Lorenzo’s remain busy and beloved. The tomato pies differ slightly, with each uniquely intricate quirk being the reason for someone’s preference. At DeLorenzo’s, the tomato pie is rich and, well, tomato-forward. The crust is on the verge of being well-done, sprinkled with bubbles of charred dough. The slices are abstract and uneven. To many, the asperous slices are alluring making for a vastly different experience with each slice.

At Papa’s you get a similarly indulgent pie in regards to the cheese and tomato, with a crisp, albeit lighter cook on the crust. The slices are cut in the classic style. But perhaps the most famous thing Papa’s does, the mustard pie, is the source for much of Papa’s acclaim. Pizza dough is stretched out and covered with a thin layer of, yes, spicy brown mustard before being topped with cheese, tomatoes and, oftentimes, sausage. This strange pizza has gained cult status.

And though it sounds weird, maybe even unappetizing, the mustard pie is a must-try for anyone who is serious about their love for all things pizza.

The truth of the matter is that it’s subjective. Mustard pie fans are always going to drift toward Papa’s, and fans of a more well-done pie might take refuge at De Lorenzo’s. There is no wrong answer. Tomato pie is a story first, and a pizza second. It represents the terroir of the Garden State’s capital. The luscious cheese and the dollops of tomato serve as a history lesson into Mercer County, where so much of our great state’s records have been written. Decades of rivalry and pizza excellence have led us to this moment.

The tale of the Trenton tomato pie dates back 100 years, being passed down from generation to generation. And though nothing is for certain, if I were a betting man, I’d put my money on Papa’s and De Lorenzo’s dishing it out 100 years from now. Just as they always have.

It may surprise you to know that I never even TASTED a New Jersey Tomato Pie until 4 short years ago – and it was in San Francisco that My eyes were first opened to its rapturous message! Specifically, at Tony’s – ranked the third-best pizza restaurant IN THE WORLD!

Anthony Felix Gemignani is an American chef, restaurateur, and author – in 2009, Gemignani opened Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco, California. Gemignani is a pizzaiolo and chef, having won 13 world titles in pizza making and opening numerous restaurants. Gemignani was born in Fremont, California, to Frank and Eileen Gemignani. He grew up on his family’s farm, he is a third generation Italian American.

Gemignani began his pizza tosser career while at Pyzano’s as a way to entertain customers and to show the quality of the dough to diners. He competed all over the world, winning 8 world champion titles for pizza acrobatics between 1995–2007, and earning himself the nickname of the “Michael Jordan of Pizza Throwing”. Gemignani traveled the world for 16 years, competing, working in others’ kitchens, and learning about regional styles of pizza.

In 2007, Gemignani took the title of “World Champion Pizza Maker” at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy – Gemignani was the first American and non-Neapolitan to ever take this title. Gemignani is the first and only Triple Crown winner for baking at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy, meaning, he won three first place titles in one competition.

Whilst sitting at the bar of his famously packed restaurant, I saw the New Jersey tomato pie on the menu, and decided to set aside My ah-beetz snobbery to try it – and WHAT A REVELATION IT WAS!

Now – it is MY time to spread the New Jersey Tomato Pie gospel to all of TFD Nation – and to make it properly, I am going to crib Tony’s own recipe for the dough with all of his secrets that he so generously shared with the world! Being TFD – I will see fit to tweak his recipe to include some einkorn – the ancient ancestor of wheat. Einkorn adds a subtle nuttiness and golden color to the crust and is easily purchased from My amazing sponsor for the last few einkorn-based recipes here on TFD – Grand Teton Ancient Grains!

Before you start – please read My treatise on how to make the best possible pizzas at home – here is the link. As baking is an exact science demanding precision weighing and amounts, all the measurements for the dough are in Metric form.

You can purchase einkorn flour for My modified Gemignani dough recipe from here – please stick to the Ancient Grains brand, their quality is simply unmatched! You’ll need a very high gluten and high protein Italian 00-type flour to make this crust properly. You can’t beat the flour Tony has custom-milled under his name: buy it from here. You will also need diastatic malt, which you can easily buy from here. Biga is a necessity in this dough – learn what it is here.

Tomato is obviously the star ingredient in a New Jersey tomato pie – as such, I specify genuine San Marzano tomatoes (buy the real deal here) as well as the best Sicilian tomato paste, which you can buy from here. To further gild the lily, I also specify adding in organic dried tomato powder to REALLY drive that flavor profile home (and to thicken the sauce, watery tomato sauce is death to New Jersey tomato pie!) – buy it from here. Kitchen Bouquet is also used in My sauce – buy it from here.

The tomato sauce is traditionally applied to the New Jersey tomato pie in a spiral, which I heartily endorse, before being baked. However, I am a heterodox when it comes to this next point – I prefer to add a SECOND spiral of uncooked sauce inside the first cooked spiral to give you a taste of roasted and uncooked tomato goodness in every bite!

The cheese should be low-moisture mozzarella, or again – you’re dumping liquid onto the top of your pizza as it cooks that will ruin it – you can buy My preferred brand from here. I always prefer crumbled Italian sweet sausage on My New Jersey tomato pie – be sure you use it!

With My einkorn-based dough recipe modified from Tony’s – I promise, your pie will be simply UNMATCHED! Citizens – this New Jersey tomato pie recipe is one that I hope meets with your approval – try it and feel the Italian New Jerseyan in you coming to the forefront!

Battle on – the Generalissimo

The Hirshon New Jersey Tomato Pie Pizza with Sausage and Herbed Garlic Oil

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• Author: The Generalissimo

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Ingredients

Units USM Scale 1x2x3x

• 1 (370-gram) ball Master Dough, made with Biga
• 3 parts flour mixed with 1 part semolina, for dusting
• 6 1/2 oz. Polly-O brand or Galbani brand whole-milk, low moisture mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced (9 slices)
• 1 cup or more as needed Hirshon Über Tomato Sauce (see accompanying recipe), at room temperature
• Freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, for dusting
• Basil Oregano Garlic Oil (see accompanying recipe), for drizzling
• Crumbled sweet Italian sausage with fennel seeds, to taste
• melted bacon fat, as needed (TFD note: optional TFD addition to recipe, just trust me)
• ***
• For the dough:
• 1.1 grams active dry yeast
• 35 grams warm water (80°F to 85°F)
• 226.5 grams combined flours weight: 170 grams Tony Gemignani “California Artisan” Type 00 Pizza Flour combined with 56.5 grams Ancient Grains Grand Teton einkorn flour
• 5 grams diastatic malt
• 105 grams ice water, plus more as needed
• 45 grams Biga (see accompanying recipe)
• 5 grams fine sea salt
• 2.5 grams (1/2 tsp.) extra virgin olive oil
• ***
• Biga (makes 45 grams):
• 0.07 grams active dry yeast or 0.21 grams fresh yeast, broken into small pieces
• 19.5 grams cold tap water
• 27.5 grams combined flours - 75% high protein flour (20.63 grams) 25% einkorn flour (6.875 grams)
• ***
• The Hirshon Über Tomato Sauce:
• 1 cup ground tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
• 1/2 cup tomato paste, preferably SuperDolce
• 1 tbsp. tomato powder (optional but recommended TFD addition)
• Pinch dried oregano
• Pinch fine sea salt
• 2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil
• a goodly splash Kitchen Bouquet
• a splash Tabasco
• ***
• The Hirshon Basil Oregano Garlic Oil - combine all, leave in fridge for up to 2 days (gets stronger the money it sits), bring to room temp before using:
• 1 1/2 tsp. minced fresh garlic
• 1 1/2 tsp. minced fresh oregano
• 1 1/2 tsp. minced fresh basil
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (TFD prefers a buttery version - most Greek olive oil fits the profile)

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Instructions

1. Biga: put the yeast in a small bowl, add the water, and whisk vigorously for 30 seconds. The mixture should bubble on top. If it doesn’t and the yeast granules float, the yeast is “dead” and should be discarded. Begin again with a fresh amount of yeast and water.
2. Add the flour and stir well with a rubber spatula to combine. The consistency will be quite thick. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for 18 hours. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to cool slightly before using. If you are not using the starter right away you can store it in the refrigerator, for no more than 8 hours. Bring it to cool room temperature before using.
3. For the Sauces: combine the the tomato sauce ingredients in a deep bowl or other deep container and puree with an immersion blender. The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days before using.
4. Combine the basil, oregano, garlic and oil in a small bowl. Cover and store in the refrigerator for a day or two.
5. Master Dough with Starter: put the yeast in a small bowl, add the warm water, and whisk vigorously for 30 seconds. The yeast should dissolve in the water and the mixture should foam. If it doesn’t and the yeast granules float, the yeast is “dead” and should be discarded. Begin again with a fresh amount of yeast and water.
6. Combine the flour and malt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.
7. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, pour in most of the ice water, reserving about 2 tablespoons, followed by the yeast-water mixture. Pour the reserved water into the yeast bowl, swirl it around to dislodge any bits of yeast stuck to the bowl, and add to the mixer. Mix for about 15 seconds, stop the mixer, and add the biga.
8. Continue to mix the dough at the lowest speed for about 1 minute, until most of the dough comes together around the hook. Stop the mixer. Use your fingers to pull away any dough clinging to the hook, and scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula. Check the bottom of the bowl for any unincorporated flour.
9. Turn the dough over and press it into the bottom of the bowl to pick up any stray pieces. If the dough isn’t holding together, add small amounts of water (about ½ tsp. to start) and mix until the dough is no longer dry and holds together.
10. Add the salt and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute to combine.
11. Stop the mixer, pull the dough off the hook, and add the oil. Mix the dough for 1 to 2 minutes, stopping the mixer from time to time to pull the dough off the hook and scrape down the sides of the bowl, until all of the oil is absorbed. The dough won’t look completely smooth.
12. Use a bowl scraper to transfer the dough to an un-floured work surface, then knead it for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth. Cover the dough with a damp dish towel and let rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
13. Form the dough into a 370 gram ball. Wrap the pan(s) airtight with a double layer of plastic wrap, sealing the wrap well under the pan(s). Put the pan(s) in a level spot in the refrigerator and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.
14. To make the Tomato Pie: remove the dough ball from the refrigerator and leave wrapped at room temperature until the dough warms to 60°F to 65°F. Meanwhile, set up the oven with a pizza stone or baking steel (preferred) and preheat to 500°F for 1 hour.
15. Dust the work surface with the dusting mixture, then move the dough to the surface and dust the top. Sprinkle a wooden peel with the dusting mixture.
16. Open the dough on the work surface to a 13-inch round with a slightly raised edge. Move the dough to the peel. As you work, shake the peel forward and backward to ensure the dough isn’t sticking.
17. Apply a VERY VERY thin coating of heated liquid bacon fat to the surface of the dough. This is a unique TFD touch and is not standard to the classic recipe. It is, however, delicious!
18. Arrange the mozzarella slices over the surface of the dough, leaving a ¾-inch border.
19. For the classic Trenton-style “Swirl” – add the sauce to a squeeze bottle and starting in the center, squeeze out ½ the sauce as a wide spiral to the edge of the pie. Sprinkle crumbled sweet Italian sausage over the pizza.
20. Slide the pizza onto the steel or stone. Bake for 6 minutes. Lift the pizza onto the peel, rotate it 180 degrees, and then transfer it back. Bake for another 6 minutes, until the bottom is browned and crisp and the top is golden brown.
21. Transfer the pizza to a cutting board, squeeze out the remaining ½ of the sauce in a spiral in between the first spiral of cooked sauce and cut into 6 wedges. Finish with a dusting of pecorino and a drizzle of basil oregano garlic oil.