The Hirshon Moroccan Rghaif Supreme (Spiced Meat-Stuffed Flatbread) – ‎رغايف or ⴰⵖⵔⵓⵎ

Citizens! After another month of traveling the world (Norway, Greece, Israel and Dubai!), I am home and suffering from an horrific case of sinusitis that has flattened me for over a week now. As such, I am FAR behind my normal weekly cadence of posting – to rectify that unfortunate truth, let’s try and get back on track with MY unparalleled version of rghaif, aka meat-stuffed Moroccan flatbread!

Rghaif (رغايف in Arabic, ⴰⵖⵔⵓⵎ in Berber), is a traditional flatbread originally from the Maghreb, commonly found in Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia. Also known as m’semmen or msemmen (Arabic: مسمن msamman, musamman), it is folded into square pancakes with multiple internal layers and cooked on a griddle.

Rghaif can also be stuffed with meat (as it is here) or onion and tomatoes – the small rghaif pancakes are of Berber origin and as such, I will focus on some Berber history with you in relation to this classic recipe, whilst regaling your taste buds with the sumptuous spicing solely satisfied by the sagaciousness of the Sultan of Spice Himself!

Moroccanjourneys.com has this to say about the Berbers – some of it may surprise you!

Introduction to the Berber Tribe: Morocco’s Largest Indigenous Group
Before you spend time in Morocco you may want to learn a little more about the largest indigenous tribe of Morocco, the Berber Tribe. The Berbers are native to North Africa. It is estimated that there are between 30 and 40 million Berber-speaking people in Africa. Most of them live in Morocco and Algeria, with some in Tunisia, Libya, Mauritania, Mali and Niger. There are also small Berber communities in Egypt and Burkina Faso.

Understanding the Amazigh: The True Name of the Berber People
The Berber people are also referred to as the Amazigh people, which means “free people” in their native Tamazight language. The term “Amazigh” may be used either in the singular or plural form (Amazighen) and is a self-designation that has gained prominence as a way of reconnecting with and affirming their distinct cultural identity and heritage.

This designation helps to distinguish them from Arab identities, reflecting a unique historical and cultural lineage that traces back to prehistoric times in North Africa. The movement to embrace the term “Amazigh” among these communities has grown, especially in Morocco and Algeria, where there has been a cultural revival and a push for recognising Tamazight as an official language, which has been successful in Morocco.

This linguistic and cultural affirmation is part of a broader effort to preserve their heritage and ensure the transmission of their language and traditions to future generations.

Distribution of Berber Speaking People in Africa
It is more than likely, especially if you travel into the desert or the mountains, that your Moroccan guide will be Berber. The term Berber is in itself an interesting one. Berber comes from the Greek word Barbaros. The meaning of Barbaros is barbarian, which is considered to be extremely offensive today. But at the time, Berber was a term given to anyone who did not speak Greek.

The Historical Origins and Evolution of the Berber People
The Berber people were Christians, Jews or Animists. Animists were people who believed humans have souls and spirits but that plants, animals and even the land is spiritual. They believed in a great connection between people, plants, animals and the land, a belief that is certainly returning today.

After being conquered by the Arab nation, the Berbers converted to Islam. Today, the majority of Berbers are Islamic, with most Jewish or Christian Berber people emigrating, although there are still Jewish and Christian Berbers in Morocco today.

Rich Cultural Traditions of the Berber Community
Within the Berber community, there are various tribes. Each tribe has a leader who chooses their partners (sometimes the leader is a woman) and there is a strong sense of unity and community. Tribes work together and although in the past there has been tribal unrest, this was a long time ago. Everything to the Berbers has meaning and you will find many Berber festivals – the Festival of Fantasia, also known as the Game of Gunpowder, and the Festival of Marriage.

Arts, Crafts, and Festivals: Showcasing Berber Creativity
Arts and culture are huge in the Berber communities, and as you travel through Morocco you will begin to recognise the arts of the various tribal areas. Weaving, pottery, jewellery and fabric design are usually undertaken by the women.

Berber tribes are traditionally divided into three large tribal confederations: Masmuda, Zenata and Sanhaja. They often form smaller confederations of tribes together (for example the Haha or the Ait Yafelman). Medieval historian Ibn Khaldun and other medieval genealogists also categorized Berber tribes into either the Baranis or Butr to refer to whether they were sedentary or nomadic.

The eponymous ancestor of the Baranis is said to be Burnus. The Butr are divided into the Lawata, the Nafusa, the Nafzawa [fr], the Banu Fatin [fr] and the Miknasa. The eponymous ancestor of the Butr is said to be Madghis al-Abtar. According to Ibn Khaldun, the Butr and the Baranis and thus the Berbers as a whole descend from Mazigh, son of Canaan, son of Ham, son of Noah.

Alternatively, some medieval genealogists attribute Jalut (Goliath) as the ancestor of the Berbers and say he migrated from Palestine to North Africa.

The Berber cuisine (Arabic: المطبخ البربري), though lacking a singular and standardized culinary framework, encompasses a diverse range of traditional dishes and influenced by the numerous flavours from distinct regions across North Africa. There is no consistent Berber cuisine, and it has been exposed to various influences. Berbers’ meal choices were shaped by local availability of foods and personal finances.

Berbers follow the same dietary laws and hygiene requirements as other Muslims. Ken Albala noted that “Describing meals as typically Berber is impossible–at best, they are samples of what is eaten in different regions by Berber families”.

Berber cuisine differs from one area to another within North Africa and West Africa (Mauritania). For this reason, every dish has a distinct and unique identity and taste according to the specific region it originates from in North Africa, with some dishes estimated to be more than a thousand years old. Zayanes of the region of Khénifra around the Middle Atlas have a cuisine of a remarkable simplicity. It is based primarily on corn, barley, ewe’s milk, goat cheese, butter, honey, meat, and game.

The website tota.world notes:

The Imazighen, or Berbers, have practiced many lifestyles across their long history. Their ways of life can generally be divided between urban tradespeople, rural farmers, and nomadic herders of the desert.

The staple foods of Maghrebi cuisine are wheat-based, including couscous, semolina, and bread. Rural families historically grew their own wheat as well as olives, plums, figs, dates, herbs, lemons, and other fruits and vegetables. They cooked with spices like coriander, cinnamon, parsley, mint, and ginger.

Farmers also raised chickens, goats, sheep, and cattle. Milk was then converted into cheeses and yogurts. Additionally, coastal peoples enjoyed access to abundant seafoods. Pork, forbidden by Islam and Judaism, is rarely consumed.

Amazighworldnews.com further elucidates:

Bread and Snacks:
Berber or Amazigh cuisine extends to a variety of flatbreads like msemen and harcha, perfect for accompanying meals or serving as a base for sandwiches. Traditional snacks, including dates, almonds, and various preserved fruits, showcase the diversity and resourcefulness of Berber culinary traditions.

Connection to Nature:
The Amazigh people’s intimate connection to nature is evident in their cuisine. Foraged herbs, wild greens, and locally sourced ingredients add depth to their dishes. Fresh mint tea, known as “nana,” not only reflects this connection but also serves as a popular gesture of hospitality in Berber culture.

Preserving Heritage:
The preservation of these traditional culinary practices is more than a culinary choice—it’s a commitment to the deep-rooted connection between the Berber people, their land, and their cultural heritage. Berber cuisine is a living expression of their identity.

To make rghaifm a proper dough is – of course – necessary and it is the backbone of the dish IMHO. As such, it needs to be achieved through the proper flour archetype for nothing less than supreme authenticity! In this case, that means you want a soft consistency, and to best achieve it, I recommend the Italian “double zero” flour used in the making of the finest pizzas – as such, go with this brand.

You will also need a good semolina flour to add in as well, and this one really fits the bill! Some coarse semolina is also needed to help the dough keep from sticking to the oiled pan as you’re forming the rghaif – this works splendidly! I also added a truly Royal touch to My version of rghaif by adding a pinch of saffron to the water used in the dough – this is a good brand I enjoy using.

Moroccans (and Amazigh) have a strong taste (pun fully intended!) for cultured butter, which adds a potent kick to many of their dishes including tagines. I have seen fit to use a bit in both the bread itself as well as the filling – you can purchase smen (remember that a little goes a LONG way!) from here. If you don’t like the flavor, just use more ghee instead – this is My choice.

To make the rghaif meat filling, common convention is to use either ground beef or lamb – being TFD, My rghaif uses beef with additional lamb fat mixed in! I have added a kick of both spiciness and smoke to the meat filling in My rghaif by adding some of the potent red pepper condiment known as harissa – and this is the only brand I recommend for it (it’s Tunisian, but Berbers are nomadic and know no borders!) .

I also further ensorcel the filling with My culinary magic through adding some of the unmatched Moroccan spice blend known as ras-el-hanout – My own (of course) is the best you’ll ever find with 36 spices in the blend, but this one is a most acceptable 35-spice version that will take you immediately to the Atlas desert!

To add a bit of umami – and this is a most heretical (and delicious!) deviation from the standard recipe – I like to add a hint of EUROPEAN Maggi seasoning (the American version is far inferior). You can buy good German Maggi (My personal favorite) from here on Amazon.

A medley of 3 different bell-type peppers, onion, leek, garlic and olives round out the transcendence of My supernal rghaif filling – I have every confidence it will meet with the approval of not only you, but those blessed guests fortunate enough to experience Amazigh hospitality at your own table in the form of rghaif.

Don’t forget to serve rghaif as the Berbers do, with its mandatory accompaniments of honey and sweetened mint tea!

I will do My level best together back into a regular posting groove on behalf of every Citizen of TFD Nation!

Battle on – the Generalissimo

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