Nihari Image Used Under Creative Commons License From playfulcooking.com
My glorious Citizens! As you are all aware, I am an avid scholar of gastronomic history and I find it eminently fascinating when I can see how two dishes that sprang from the same source have diverged over time, religion, geography and economics. Few dishes so starkly illustrate this as nihari – a humble dish that is considered the national dish of Pakistan today, but had its origins in the gleaming courts of the Muslim Indian Royals! I covered the Pakistani version several years ago here – but today, walk the diamond-strewn Royal Road of the Indian Awadhi Nawabs with Me to see its VERY deluxe ancestor!
This fantastic video on Instagram tells you a great deal about the Awadhi version of nihari and was the inspiration for My creating today’s recipe – she is My new culinary hero!
Awadhi cuisine is My favorite of ALL the Indian cuisine subtypes, as it is unabashedly complex – using dozens of ingredients, many steps, and weaving together the most intricate techniques for SUPREME flavor. I am also going to have you make the rare Saffron-scented bread known as sheermal that traditionally accompanies the Awadhi nihari. If this description cows you, please move on and visit the Pakistani version of Nihari that is much easier to prepare…
Do I still have you? GOOD.
I commend both your challenging spirit and devotion to achieving ultimate flavor – you have My respect, Citizen!
First, a hosannah (or more properly given the context, a Hindu bhajan – or even more properly a Muslim aṣ-Ṣalāh) to the glory that ALONE is Awadhi food! Why do I list both Hindu and Muslim phrases? Ah, that is the crux of the matter – because the Maharajahs and Nawabs were not Hindus, but Muslims from Persia who ruled over the Hindus of the region (and who had less than ideal brushes with Christian British soldiers, thus the hosannah reference)!
Awadh, known in British Raj historical texts as Avadh or Oudh, is a historical region in northern India, now constituting the central portion of Uttar Pradesh. It is roughly synonymous with the ancient Kosala region of Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain scriptures.
It was a province of all the major Islamic dynasties in India including the Mughal Empire. With the decline of late Mughal Delhi, Awadh became a major source of literary, artistic, religious, and architectural patronage in northern India under the rule of its eleven rulers, called Nawabs. From 1720 to 1856, the nawabs presided over Awadh, with Ayodhya and Faizabad serving as the region’s initial capitals. Later, the capital was relocated to Lucknow, which is now the capital of Uttar Pradesh.
The British conquered Awadh in 1856, which infuriated Indians and was recognized as a factor causing the Indian Rebellion (1857-58), the biggest Indian uprising against British rule. The word Awadh is inherited from the Sanskrit word Ayodhya meaning “not to be warred against, irresistible”. Awadh, known as the granary of India, was important strategically for the control of the Doab, a fertile plain between the Ganges and the Yamuna rivers. It was a wealthy kingdom, able to maintain its independence against threats from the Marathas, the British and the Afghans.
For about eighty-four years (from 1394 to 1478), Awadh was part of the Sharqi Sultanate of Jaunpur; emperor Humayun made it a part of the Mughal Empire around 1555. Emperor Jehangir granted an estate in Awadh to a nobleman, Sheik Abdul Rahim, who had won his favor. Sheik Abdul Rahim later built Machchi Bhawan in this estate; this later became the seat of power from where his descendants, the Sheikhzades, controlled the region.
Until 1719, the Subah of Awadh (bordering (Old) Delhi, Agra, Illahabad and Bihar) was a province of the Mughal Empire, administered by a Nazim or Subah Nawab (governor) appointed by the Emperor. Nawab –the plural of the Arabic word ‘Naib’, meaning ‘assistant’– was the term given to subahdars (provincial governors) appointed by the Mughal emperor all over India to assist him in managing the empire.
In the absence of expeditious transport and communication facilities, they were practically independent rulers of their territory and wielded the power of life and death over their subjects. Persian adventurer Saadat Khan, also called Burhan-ul-Mulk, was appointed the Nazim of Awadh in 1722 and he established his court in Faizabad, near Lucknow.
The Nawabs of Lucknow were in fact the Nawabs of Awadh, but were so referred to because after the reign of the third Nawab, Lucknow became the capital of their realm, where the British station Residents (‘diplomatic’ colonial Agents) from 1773. The city was “North India’s cultural capital”; its nawabs, best remembered for their refined and extravagant lifestyles, were patrons of the arts. Under them music and dance flourished, and many monuments were erected.
The Nawabs of Awadh were a Persian Shia Muslim dynasty from Nishapur who not only encouraged the existing Persian-language belle-lettrist activity to shift from Delhi, but also invited and received a steady stream of scholars, poets, jurists, architects, and painters from Iran. Thus Persian was used in government, in academic instruction, in high culture, and in court.
Awadhi Cuisine is primarily from the city of Lucknow and its environs. The cooking patterns of the city are similar to those of Central Asia, the Middle East, and Northern India as well. The cuisine consists of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Awadh has been greatly influenced by Mughal cooking techniques, and the cuisine of Lucknow bears similarities to those of Kashmir, Punjab and Hyderabad; and the city is famous for its Nawabi foods.
The bawarchis and rakabdars of Awadh gave birth to the dum style of cooking or the art of cooking over a slow fire, which has become synonymous with Lucknow today. Their spread would consist of elaborate dishes like kebabs, kormas, biryani, kaliya, nahari-kulchas, zarda, sheermal, Taftan, roomali rotis and warqi parathas. The richness of Awadh cuisine lies not only in the variety of cuisine but also in the ingredients used like mutton, paneer, and rich spices including cardamom and saffron – ancient Awadhi recipes even used powdered diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds in their preparation!
Nihari is a stew from the Indian subcontinent consisting of slow-cooked meat (mainly shank meat of beef or lamb or mutton) along with bone marrow. As the Nabobs were Muslim, they could eat beef – something that would horrify any devout Hindu today. In Pakistan, Nihari is made from beef or mutton (goat) based on price – In India, it would be the same depending not on economics but instead drawn along religious lines.
After the creation of Pakistan in 1947, many Urdu-speaking Muslims from the Awadhi region migrated to Karachi and established restaurants. In Karachi, Nihari became a roaring success and soon was served all over Pakistan. Today, nihari is available in Pakistani restaurants around the world and those in the West who have tossed aside their marrow-based prejudice have discovered a true new taste treat.
The word nihari originated from the Arabic word “nahar” (Arabic: نهار) which means “day” as it was typically served after sunrise Fajr prayers. According to many sources, nihari either originated in Hyderabad, Old Delhi in the late 18th century during the last throes of the Mughal Empire or in the royal kitchens of Awadh, in modern-day Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. THIS is the version I am blessing you with today, My Citizens.
In some restaurants, a few kilos from each day’s leftover nihari is added to the next day’s pot. This re-used portion of nihari is called Taar and is believed to provide the unique flavor. Some nihari outlets in old Delhi still boast of an unbroken taar going back more than a century. Nihari is also used as a home remedy for Common cold, Rhinorrhea and Fever. According to a legend, the cure was first concocted at least a hundred years ago in Delhi by a Hakeem.
So – let’s make this dish, shall we?
Traditionally, nihari is made from beef or mutton shin, known as ‘bong’ – any good Indian or Pakistani grocer is guaranteed to have the proper cut – otherwise, your butcher should have it as well. Ask for additional bone marrow – it really enriches the sauce and remember this dish was DESIGNED for richness and complexity!
One key refinement of Awadhi cuisine is putting the special 21 ingredient masala in a cheesecloth bag so the flavors are infused slowly over many hours into the rich, silken gravy but the spices themselves are removed to not ruin the texture of the sauce. Yes, I said there are 21 spices in just the nihari masala alone – I WARNED YOU! 😉
Many of these are easy to find spices – several are not. Fear not, I have top-quality sources for them all!
Awadhi nihari is distinguished by its subtle, refined flavors and the use of the dum pukht cooking technique, which sets it apart from more robust versions found elsewhere. Originating in the royal kitchens of Lucknow, the Awadhi version emphasizes a delicate balance of spices rather than overwhelming heat.
The Awadhi version is known for its subtle and elegant flavor, which comes from a sophisticated and nuanced blend of spices. Key ingredients often include aromatic components such as green cardamom, rose water, and saffron, which give it a fragrant and refined taste. The spice level is less intense and more balanced than in other preparations.
Other versions (e.g., Delhi, Pakistani): These preparations tend to be bolder and use a heartier amount of spices, along with more generous additions of dairy and cream. They are known for a richer, more robust flavor and a spicier finish.
The Awadhi nihari is famously prepared using the dum pukht (slow-cooked) method. The meat and spices are sealed in a heavy-bottomed pot (handi) and cooked over a low flame for several hours, sometimes overnight. This technique preserves the natural aromas and juices, resulting in exceptionally tender meat and a deeply infused, full-bodied stew.
While other nihari versions are also slow-cooked, they do not necessarily adhere to the precise dum pukht method. The process is often adapted for commercial restaurant settings, resulting in variations in the richness and depth of flavor.
The Awadhi gravy is often thickened with a paste made from flour, which creates a smooth, velvety texture. Some recipes may also include bone marrow (nalli), adding extra richness and depth. Other versions also use flour or roasted chickpea flour (sattu) as a thickening agent, but the proportion and method can vary by region.
The traditional Awadhi nihari is usually served with sheermal, a decadently saffron-flavored, mildly sweet bread. This pairing is considered a classic balance, with the sweet, soft bread complementing the savory, spicy stew. Other styles of nihari are commonly served with khameeri roti or naan. The choice of bread pairs differently with the nihari’s flavor profile.
Citizens – I totally recognize this is a lot for one meal – but once you create the complex nihari masala, this is a LOT easier to make again and again, as most of this is just “set it and forget it” cooking for many hours. THAT will teach the cowards who bailed early on this recipe – but YOU get all the glory and the gastronomic rewards! A little of this VERY RICH stew goes a very long way and it keeps for several days (and like all stews, improves with a reheat IMHO!).
For the nihari spice mix: dry roast all the whole spices in a pan. Keep them aside to cool off before grinding very coarsely in the spice grinder. Wrap the masala in cheesecloth, knot and reserve.
Sauté aromatics: Heat half the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pot or handi over medium-high heat. Add the sliced onions and fry until golden brown. Add the ginger and garlic pastes and sauté for 2 minutes, or until the raw aroma dissipates.
Brown the meat: Add the beef shank to the pot. Sear the meat for 8–10 minutes until it is well-browned on all sides.
Add spices: Stir in the turmeric, chili powder, and salt. Continue to sauté for another minute, making sure the spices don’t burn.
Simmer the nihari: Add the beef stock or water, the beaten curd with spices, any remaining Nihari ingredients from the Nihari portion of the ingredients list and the potli masala to the pot.
Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to very low. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and let it simmer for at least 6 hours, preferably 8-10, or until the meat is falling-off-the-bone tender. If you want to use the traditional dum pukht method, seal the lid with a thick dough made from wheat flour and water.
While the nihari is cooking, make the sheermal bread: Take out ¼ cup of milk and dissolve saffron in it. Set aside.
Dissolve sugar in the rest of the 1 cup of milk.
In a large bowl, combine flour and salt.
Make a well in the center and pour in the milk sugar mixture, 2 teaspoons of saffron milk, and melted ghee. Start mixing gradually. Knead to make a soft dough. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and set aside for 10-15 minutes.
Divide the dough into 8 equal-sized portions. Shape them into balls. Cover with a damp kitchen towel for 10-15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease a baking tray or line with parchment paper. Working with one ball at a time, roll it out into a disc, about 4.5″-5″ in diameter. These should not be rolled out thin. Prick the entire surface with a fork.
Place carefully on the prepared tray and bake for 5 minutes. Take the tray out, brush the flatbreads with saffron-infused milk. Immediately return to the oven for another 6-7 minutes or until the breads are golden and done. Try and time the breads to be done close to serving time for the nihari.
Smear with ghee as soon as you take them out of the oven and serve warm with the nihari.
Make the roux: Remove the pot from the heat. Skim off some of the fat and oil from the surface and reserve it in a bowl. In a separate pan, heat the remaining ghee and oil. Add the whole wheat flour and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring constantly, until the flour turns light brown and smells nutty. Add the reserved fat to the roux and stir to combine.
Thicken the gravy: Remove the potli masala from the nihari and discard. Bring the nihari back to a simmer and slowly add the flour-and-fat roux, whisking continuously to prevent lumps. Continue to cook for another 15–20 minutes until the gravy thickens to your desired consistency.
Finish and serve: Stir in the saffron-milk mixture, rose water water, Nihari masala and a final pinch of nutmeg powder. Serve the nihari hot, drizzled with the reserved fat and garnished with julienned ginger, cilantro, green chilies, lime wedges and fried onions.
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